Saturday, May 21, 2011

Prodigal Sun

This goes on and on.  It never ends. The sun just never sets.  I can’t tell if I’ve been here one day, or one hundred.

(actually, I’m at day sixteen of sixteen weeks.  not that I’m counting. ohgodohgodohgod.)

Everybody likes the idea of coming to visit during the period of 24 hour daylight, but once you’ve been up for 72 hours with ATVs on a constant parade loop outside your window and children throwing rocks on your tin roof from midnight to 5 am, the novelty kind of wears off.  Like a 4 year old mangling a joke.

Knock Knock.

Who’s there?

The sun!

The sun, who?

The sun blazing through your windows at 3am!

(Har har.)

Knock knock.

Who’s there?

SUN!

Sun, who?

SUUUUN!!

Knock knock….

(Nooooooo!)

The Inuit articulate chronology in a way that makes particular sense this time of year.  Everything is counted backwards or forwards from the moment you’re in.  When talking about an event three days in the past, they say ‘today, yesterday, the day before, the day before that.’ Seamless, and somehow separate.  It probably explains why I just listen to the same albums over and over again, and am perpetually déjà-vuing my way through the days. I can’t begin to count the days until my break: five weeks and the day after that and the day after that and the day after that…

Every fall, the roads are sprayed with Calcium Chloride for dust suppression purposes.  The by-product of this process is that every spring, every inch of this town (and every soul in it) ends up covered with silky red mud. Keeping clean is impossible, so everyone just wears an outfit until it smells, itches, or becomes sentient.  I suspect that with a few more days' wear, my fur hat will fuse itself to my skull and start giving unsolicited relationship advice.  "He was a BASTARD to you! More coffee, more coffee!*" Or something.  And as helpful as my hat might be, I still look like crap.  Ugh.

And yet...I feel better than I have felt in a very, very long time.   Look at me, with the optimism and smiling and crap.  

I’ll find you in Hell after the Rapture, at the combo Tim Horton’s/Wendy’s/Esso.  I’ll grab the Double Doubles and the Dutchies. You get the napkins.  We’ll need a lot.  It’ll get sweaty in Hell, I reckon.


*kids in the hall reference.  there will be a test.

Monday, May 16, 2011

Bingo

Barney's wife: I'm going to bingo.  I need money. I can either sell your rifle, or the tv.

Barney (in slow, Baker Lake drawl): Well, I'm watching the teeeeveeee....

Sigh.

Friday, May 13, 2011

Thursday, May 12.

yesterday's highlight: overheard plane mechanic refer to me as 'that broad'. i think i can die now. and given that we have a town necrophiliac, i might even get some sex out of the whole thing.


today started off well, with me having to explain to a coworker why it wasn't appropriate for him to "joke" (incessantly) about how he has been sexually assaulting me in my sleep.


yeah, i'm back in nunavut.  

Thursday, May 12, 2011

You Do It To Yourself, You Do.


Perhaps I should back up.  Seventeen months after I left, I am back in Nunavut.  I am back because I need money.  I need money because I took seventeen months off work.  I took seventeen months off work because I used to have a very intense job.  I signed up for a very intense job because I felt like I was stuck in a rut that I needed to get out of.  And sometimes it’s like when you’re stuck in a muddy ditch; you unnecessarily put the pedal to the floor and the next thing you know, you’ve smashed through the nice neighbor kid’s lemonade stand?  That’s me, in a nutshell.  When life gives me lemons, I wind up driving right through the lemonade stand.  In a very expensive, uninsured imported vehicle.  Or something.

So I’m back.  After being up for 48 straight hours, weepy and a little delirious, I made my way to the airport with 2 large bags.  These bags conformed to the weight restrictions laid out by the airline I was booked with—I’d been sure to research that.  What I’d failed to consider was the first leg of the flight, which was booked on a “partner airline”.  THEIR luggage allowance was exactly HALF of what I’d brought with me to the airport.  Here’s what you need to know: I’m beyond broke right now.  Like, hobo broke, and I couldn't cover the excess baggage charge.  So I had no choice; I hastily transferred fistfuls of socks and underwear from one bag to the other, obsessively weighed the thing down to the pound, and then left the rest.  Just left it there, in the airport.  I can’t think about what I’ve left behind.  It’s just stuff.  It is really just stuff.

The attendant on the flight north was warm and lovely, but had such a peculiar personal aesthetic that I found it difficult to look at her.  Her skin was the colour of caramel, which makes her sound exotic and sensual, but she wasn’t.  She had tanned herself to the colour of Wurther’s Originals, and chosen to make the tan ‘pop’ with a highly metallic silver eyeshadow.  To further contrast with her tan, she’d bleached her hair to the point where it was no longer hair, technically.  It was hay, so coarse from chemicals that it wouldn’t lay flat against her head.  Her ponytail stood out straight behind her, as though it were blowing in the wind.  All the time.

I recognized people on the plane, in the little airports along the way.  Their conversations sounded familiar.  It was like I’d never left.  In a good way.

I nearly tripped on a rabbit on my way to breakfast my first morning back.  I work in an airplane hangar, behind a plane, two loaders and a helicopter, in a heated box.  I wear my sunglasses when I walk home at 10 pm.  I’m homesick and more than a little heartsick.  It is a means to an end.  You should really come and visit.  And bring me some cheese.  And truffle honey.  And a custard tart.  

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

And Again


When I first came up to Nunavut, exactly 4 years ago, there were ptarmigan everywhere.  Early on, someone told me something about the ptarmigan that stuck with me, that I thought of at the time as divine advice: “Never let the birds see your face. You can catch a ptarmigan if you don’t look them in the eye.”  After a series of failures and disappointments, I felt like this was the romantic and personal advice I’d been seeking for some time.  Never show your true self, sneak up on the thing you want or fear most, and then you’ll be able to trap it before it knows what’s coming.  

I walked home tonight.  It was 10pm.  I was wearing sunglasses. The ground constantly shifts shape and texture this time of year, softening and melting and moving and freezing again.  While walking, I kept my eyes to the ground to ensure my footing, because I tend to daydream and trip with some frequency.  About halfway down the long road from the airport, I looked up.  15 teenagers were coming my way, all holding hands.  Stretched across the road like a chain of paper dolls, they ambled toward me.  Even from a great distance, I could see wide-open faces, huge smiles, wordless conversations. 

Whoever gave me the ptarmigan advice was wrong.  Always show your face.  Always be open.  Live in full daylight.  Love like the sun will never set.  

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Under Water, Over Snow

Oh, hi.  I hadn't realized it'd been so long.

I guess I've been busy?

Shenanigans, surprises, soul-crushing poverty...the usual.

I've finally begun packing for Nunavut.  I have to remind myself over and over again that I really only need to bring a week's worth of clothing, even though I'll be there for 4 months, maybe longer.  Nobody will care how I look, and I'll be forever buried under layers, regardless.  I'm like Steve Martin in "The Jerk".  "I just need these grey jeans.  And this Skeletor t-shirt. And this ugly sweater." I tell myself that certain items will cheer me up, remind me of home and friends.  I'm kidding myself, I know.  There will be a lot to miss.

I will miss: fresh produce.  good coffee.  live music.  mexican food.  toronto's oppressive summer heat.  ice cream trucks.  my bed.  the rumbling of streetcars.   privacy.  dresses.  heels.  did i mention mexican food?

Mostly, I'll miss my friends.  In the last few years, I've ended up in the middle of an incredible and inspiring group of insane, generous and wonderful people.  And the nerd in me feels like when I come back from summer break, all the ground I've covered and relationships I've built will have dissolved like fruit-flavoured laxative powder in tepid water.  Which I will then be forced to drink, alone, with heavy heart.  And then double over with cramps.  And then nearly poop myself in a Tim Horton's on the highway.  Not that this has ever happened before.

Please don't make me poop myself, friends.  That laxative powder never tastes like fruit, anyway.

Thursday, March 31, 2011

Right. But what was I wearing?

I often joke that at any given moment, I’m either thinking about cheeseburgers, the Internet, or sex.  The attention I devote to these thoughts is so great and intense that I often walk into walls, doors or fire hydrants, and I fall down stairs with a frequency that borders on alarming.  And I don’t just stumble down the stairs, I spiral down in what I call a “Twelve Coconut Cream Pies Fall”, a reference to an old Sesame Street bit where a chef, carrying said number of pies, tumbles dramatically and vocally down a flight of stairs.  But I digress.

Nowhere in this city have I fallen more frequently, spectacularly, and painfully than on the stairs at the Art Gallery of Ontario.  What I’m saying is that I should have thought twice about the shoes I wore yesterday to a preview of the Inuit art exhibition opening soon at the AGO.  In fact, given that I was meeting my good friend A's very fancy parents for the first time, I should have thought twice about the entire outfit. But, no.  That’s not what happened at all.

For most of my life, I’ve felt as though there’s been a major disconnect between who I am and what I look like.  We never had full-length mirrors in the house growing up, and I still don’t have one now (which is why I sometimes leave the house in dresses that are, in fact, shirts. Again, I digress). I don’t dry my hair in front of a mirror.  Until I started wearing makeup a few years ago, the only time I looked at my face at all was when I was either brushing my teeth or shopping for clothing.  So when I decided to take the time to figure out who I was, I also made a conscious effort to work out what I looked like.  Consequently, a lot of my clothes feel like markers along the path of my 'journey' over the last year and a half.  

Right.  But what was I wearing?  Well, because I’m going away to the Arctic for half a year, I’ve been digging deep into the closet and pulling out old sentimental favourites that I won’t get to wear for a very long time.  Yesterday, I wore one of my favourite blouses.  It’s a vintage cream thing with giant puffy sleeves and tiny pearl buttons and pleats and a collar like a Georgia O’Keeffe iris.  It’s also completely transparent.  The last time I wore it, my friend C. said “It only looks slutty when I open my eyes.”  And then we went out and had a night that I remember with great fondness.  It wasn’t until I arrived at the gallery that I also remembered that the tiny pearl buttons fly open if I’m not completely motionless.  So that, a cream leather jacket, a high-waisted black skirt, metallic bronze tights and stiletto-heeled granny boots.  All in all, an excellent outfit to meet very reserved parents and/or fall down stairs.

A. and I made our way to the gallery's basement cafeteria to wait for her parents.  I gripped the rail tightly and managed not to fall.  As we sat there, I grew increasingly more anxious about my outfit, and A's parents' reaction to it.  I got nervous, and started talking too much, too fast.  And sweating.  Obviously.

Someone recently said that an outfit I was wearing effectively gave them permission to say whatever they wanted about me.  That I was "asking for it" by dressing a certain way.  I went berzerk.  Cleavage is not consent, first of all.  But also, because I now feel that I look more like who I really am, superficial criticism hurts/insults on a completely new level.  This isn't something I really had to contend with before, somehow.  The possibility that A's parents would judge and potentially reject me based on my appearance (and therefore my personality) nearly did my head in.  As we climbed the slippery wooden spiral stairs, my wet palms could barely grip the railing.  Which only made me more anxious about the falling, which was an inevitability in my mind.

But none of this mattered the moment I stepped into the room full of art.  The work of people I've known, whose homes I've been in, on the walls of one of the largest galleries in North America. I was almost immediately overwhelmed.  And then I saw Tony's drawing.  I nearly came undone.

Tony, it was said, had sustained a moderate head injury a long time ago.  But what really messed him up was the gas huffing he'd done after.  He used to sit in my office 3 or 4 times a week, grinning, grinding his teeth, drinking our shitty coffee.  He was looking for work, and it didn't matter how many times I told him that we weren't hiring, he'd be back a day or so later.  When I first started, Tony had been employed by us out at the tent camp on the tundra.  He had been charged with emptying the giant buckets in the outhouses, and then setting the waste on fire along with the other garbage.  He loved his job.  The position no longer existed, but he always asked.  His snowpants were held together with duct tape.  He was always dirty.  He reeked of smoke.  I would sometimes pretend to be on the phone when he came by, having one-sided fake conversations with a ringtone.

But his drawing.  Was beautiful.  I stood in front of it for a long time, in my ridiculous outfit, in a Frank Gehry designed building, thinking about Tony and his duct tape repaired clothing and how I'd judged him, and I felt like a royal asshole.  I tried to imagine how he would even feel about the show, if he even knew about it.  I didn't want to even think about the valuation of his work, how little of it likely makes it to his hands.  All I know is that when I get back up there in a month, I'm looking forward to telling Tony about how much I liked his work, and how proud I am to know him.